Meskel in Addis: the Festival of the True Cross

More About This Event

There’s a certain magic in the Addis air every September. The rains have ended, the highlands are carpeted in golden Meskel flowers, and the entire city begins to buzz with a festive energy. This can only mean one thing: the Meskel celebration is here.

More than just a public holiday, Meskel is a profound cultural experience. It’s a day where ancient legend, deep faith, and joyful community celebration collide in a spectacular display of light and color. If you're in Addis, here’s what you need to know and where you need to be.

The Story Behind the Celebration

So, what exactly is Meskel? It translates to "cross," and it commemorates a story over 1,600 years old.

According to tradition, the Byzantine Empress Helena (or Eleni in Amharic) had a dream guiding her to light a great fire. The smoke from this fire led her to the site in Jerusalem where the True Cross—the cross upon which Jesus was crucified—was buried.

In Ethiopia, this story is woven into the end of the rainy season, making it a dual celebration of divine discovery and the return of the sunny, beautiful Tseday season.

When & Where?

📅 The Main Event: The big celebrations happen on Meskel Eve, which falls on September 26th (with the public holiday on the 27th).
📍 The Epicenter: The heart of the action is Meskel Square in the city center. This is where the national celebration, led by the Patriarch of the Orthodox Church, takes place.
🔥 Neighborhood Celebrations: Don’t worry if big crowds aren't your thing! The real charm of Meskel is that it happens in every neighborhood, every church compound, and every family home across the city.
How to Experience Meskel in Addis Ababa

The celebration unfolds in a series of beautiful, can’t-miss moments:

1. The Processions (Late Afternoon, Sept 26th)
   This is the first sign that something special is happening. Make your way to the streets around Meskel Square and watch as hundreds—sometimes thousands—of people gather. You’ll see:

Priests and deacons in magnificent robes, carrying ornate crosses and beating ceremonial drums.
Congregations singing hymns and spiritual songs (mezmur).
A sea of colorful ceremonial umbrellas and the bright white of traditional dress (yehabesha libs).
The atmosphere is electric, a powerful mix of reverence and mounting excitement.

1. The Lighting of the Demera (Dusk, Sept 26th)
   This is the climax. A massive, tower-like bonfire made of bundled sticks—the demera—is built in the center of Meskel Square, often topped with the yellow Meskel flowers.

As the sun sets, the Patriarch, surrounded by clergy, uses a torch to light the pyre. A huge cheer erupts from the crowd as the flames leap into the sky. It’s a truly breathtaking sight.

Local Lore: Many believe the direction in which the demera falls predicts the future—whether it will be a year of plenty or challenge.

1. The Neighborhood Parties (Night, Sept 26th)
   Once the main square is lit, the entire city follows suit. This is when the celebration becomes incredibly personal.

Families and friends gather around their own smaller demera in courtyards and streets.
The night fills with the sound of singing, dancing, and celebration.
It’s a time of joy, community, and sharing a traditional meal (often featuring freshly baked dabo bread).
A beautiful tradition: Many will mark their foreheads with the ash from the cooled demera in the shape of a cross, a sign of faith and a blessing for the year ahead.

Good to Know If You're Going

It’s a BIG Deal: This is a major national holiday. Government offices, banks, and many shops will be closed on the 27th. The city is packed, so embrace the energy!
Getting There: Traffic around Meskel Square will be completely shut down. Your best bet is to walk or use the Addis Light Rail to get as close as possible.
What to Bring: Just yourself, a sense of wonder, and your camera. Be prepared for large, dense crowds.
Be Respectful: While it's a festive occasion, it is also a deeply religious one for many. Dress modestly and be mindful during prayers and hymns.
Meskel is more than a festival; it’s the soul of Addis Ababa on full display. It’s an unforgettable experience of warmth, light, and community that you’ll carry with you long after the ashes have cooled.

Will you be celebrating Meskel this year?
Have you experienced it before? Share your favorite memory or a tip for first-timers in the comments below